Restaurant Review

Mulan (Flushing NY)

(718) 886-8526

Queens Crossing--136-17 39th Avenue,
Flushing, NY 11354

Reviewed by: Jacqueline M. Newman
Winter Volume: 2008 Issue: 15(4) page: 27

Hasten to Mulan in Flushing and see and salivate over great Chinese food. The dishes here are the result of the chef's extensive travel, reams of writing and researching recipes, thirty-six years of professional practice, and understandings of China's classic cuisine. These mix with talents as an experienced culinary genius, creativity, picture-perfect plating skills, and a set of taste buds I wish I had.

Executive Chef Peter How, a Malaysian-born Chinese, creates innovative Chinese food with strong roots in China's ancient food traditions. His results look and taste terrific, and dining at his eatery named for a magnolia flower, captivates. He trained under the tutelage of and in many celebrated restaurants; and worked with Jean-George Vongerichten as well as many Chinese master chefs.

His food appears and tastes Cantonese, some dishes with modern Asian tastes. He entices the eye, excites the taste buds, and stimulates all senses. His food, such as his Mulan Duck (shown on this page) arrives and everyone in the area says 'wow!' This and all dishes have many tastes, textures, colors, and other delights. Chef How has been featured in the Asian media and Western press before he came to and developed dishes at this new restaurant. One can read about him in the World Journal, Sing Dao Daily, the New York Times, Zagat, and Time Out Magazine, to name but a handful of earlier reviews.

Go to Flushing often, and taste everything he makes. See and savor his seafood appetizer and the scallops appetizer. Check out his Chinese chocolate dessert called Chocolate Cake. No cake this, it is divine and a meal-ending magnificent aromatic dish complete with its own wonton-skin-shaped spoon with Asian ice cream. Taste the many other appetizers, soups, main courses, and desserts—yes desserts. This chef's heritage is Malaysian so Chinese meals end with sweet flavors. They and all his food offers memories to keep you returning for more.

Chef How's Foods are love affairs. When we dine here we know we have eaten things to be spoken of for days, weeks, and months to come. As a chocoholic, I adore that Chocolate Cake. It is a warm winner. Many of his foods, like many Asian people, show a mix of Chinese roots and Asian branches, a combo of tastes old and new. Like China's own history, they are worth knowing about.

Mulan, as said, is the name of a magnolia flower. It is also the name of a Chinese heroine who served in an all-male army. She was a clever strategist who did great things for family and country. You can, too, and take your family to enjoy this Mulan. You will need to be a strategist to find the elevator in this Queens Crossing building as the restaurant is on the second floor. Hardly a sign points the way. The soldier Mulan saved her dad from military duty. Save yourself from missing this gem and take your troop of family and friends there soon.

Once at this Mulan, select new and old favorites. You will be in a gorgeous restaurant with an elevated platform, water curtains, elegant glass art around the periphery, embroidered napkins and chopstick holders, name-emblazoned dishes, and much more. Even the beautiful bathrooms are worth the visit, they come with orchids.

Among culinary greats, try the soft-shelled crabs, they can win many decision-making battles of which dish is best. Dig in to the Diver Sea Scallops and so many others great selections. Try the Steamed huge and heavenly Dungeness Crab. Field the Crab Leg Shark Fin; it is fantastic. With dozens upon dozens of dishes to choose from, and we have eaten more than half of them, we found only one that did not win us over, and that was the Napoleon Tofu served on its own huge heart-shaped plate.

This multi-million dollar setting, has super service, beautiful things to see, outstanding food service, and very fine food. We would be remiss not to mention the daily five-course luncheon. There are more than a handful of items in virtually every meal category except dessert; that is chef's choice. We have never been disappointed. The paltry-priced complete lunch now costs less than fifteen bucks. It is probably the best bargain in the borough. Yes, do hasten to Mulan; it is a facility worth seeing with food worth savoring.

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