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Red Egg (New York City NY)
||202 Centre Street,|
New York City, NY
Reviewed by: Jacqueline M. Newman
Summer Volume: 2009 Issue: 16(2) page: 23 and 24
Red Egg, by name, connotes son and heir and a family's fortune. Cooperation of father (an architect) and son (a restaurant manager) makes for a lovely place featuring delightful design and delicious victuals. Mom adds inspiration with a few Peruvian dishes sprinkled on their menu. Why Peruvian, she and her family once lived in Lima, so the Chinese dishes from that capital city show off Chinese foods she and they ate there.
Food here one block north of Manhattan's Chinatown is terrific Southern and Eastern Chinese fare. Every dim sum, small plate, and regular-size dish is great. Recall the Silver Palace restaurant? Head chef here was similarly employed there; that explains it all.
For dim sum, start with Red Egg Puff. This thousand-layer dough cracks at first bite revealing a fantastic red bean interior. Steamed Seafood Delight with shrimp, pork, and chicken meld magnificently. Peking Duck Sliders, no slouches, are loaded with crispy duck skin slathered with hoisin sauce. Many dim sum delights to chose from, the super Sweet Bean Sauce Octopus, Pudding in Fresh Coconut, and Crispy Green Tea Rice Ball are but three examples.
Main courses are magnificent. Chinese Broccoli with Black Olive Sauce delights; its pickled olives and masterful mix of fine tastes titillates tastebuds. Jumbo Shrimp with Garlic Sauce sound simple and are simply super. Curry Bread Bowl filled with blue crab, chicken, and pork is spicy and special. Frogs with Yellow Chinese Chives are juicy and just fine. Popcorn Tuna is a treat. Beef Filet with Black Pepper Corns is beautiful; and on an on it goes of many 'try me' treats.
Lomo Salata comes with a wonderful mix of shredded chicken, yellow sauce, rice, and potatoes. Ceviche de Mariscosa arrives with octopus, squid, shrimp, and scallops. Choros include plump piquant mussels. Chinese in Peruvian food here is the fine bi-cultural marvel it is in that country; so coming here means enjoying ambiance David created, Darren manages, and chefs Mei and Yu prepare. What a treat!
We order six dishes, Frogs Legs with Ginger and Chives. Flour-coated and fried, they come with stir-fried onions and green peas, and are fresh and fantastic. Claws of Crab (really crayfish) come as ordered, with black bean sauce, carrots, and straw mushrooms. They also arrive with strips of carrot, green pepper, onions, and young ginger; and they are great, too. The other dishes we order are Cantonese Roast Duck with orange slices, Pork with Perfumed Mushrooms and Bamboo Shoots, and Lamb with Ginger bathing in broth. All the dishes are good Cantonese food, the service is super, and we really enjoy every dish in this fantastic place