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Little Szechuan (St Paul MN)
||422 University Avenue West,|
St. Paul, MN 55103
Reviewed by: Michael Gray
Winter Volume: 2011 Issue: 18(4) page: 22
In the Twin Cities where I once lived and cooked, this is a place I enjoy. The Chinese saying, yi cai yi ge, bai cai bai wei, is appropriate in this city as it means: For each dish, each style; in a hundred dishes, one hundred flavors.
This has been true on many visits over the past few years in St. Paul, one of the Minnesota's twin cities. Here, some of my favorite dishes are Szechuan Cold Bean Jelly made with pleasing jelly noodles contrasting with the numbing ma la heat of the chilies. Potato Shreds with Green Peppers are an estimable rendition. Gong Bao Chicken, whose first two words you may know as Kung Pao, is as good as it gets. It is lightly stir-fried, not laden with thick cornstarch glop. I love it because it is just what a Sichuanese grandmother would have made.
There are Stir Fried Pea Tips with fresh with pieces of garlic that are still toothsome, though maybe just a slight downturn of their heat from my previous visit. The Ma La Pork Shreds were a little tough but they did have yummy flavor. Quick Fried Lotus Root was warm and not too spicy; they are pictured on this page as is their cumin lamb whose meat was a little too chopped for my taste.