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Galaxie II Restaurant (North Providence RI)
||1449 Mineral Spring Avenue,|
N. Providence, RI
Reviewed by: Jacqueline M. Newman
Winter Volume: 2000 Issue: 7(4) page: 24
In a city where Chinese restaurants serve not only Chinese dishes but also Thai, Vietnamese, and Cambodian foods, we learned why Jacky K. Ko has a reputation and two places that serve quality Chinese foods. The other is at 255 Cowesset Avenue in West Warwick, Rhode Island. We did not try foods of any of the related Asian cuisines that he serves in both places, but using similar techniques used in trying new restaurants where no one can advise what to order, we had Jacky and his chef spoil us with some very fine Chinese foods while we read about many others. We also enjoyed the photographs of many of the dishes that graced his menu.
The Hot and Sour Soup was redolent with cloud ear mushrooms, lily flowers, and tofu, and it was hot with white pepper, the classic way, and sour with a fine grade of vinegar. Szechuan Chicken came equally piquant, but with chili peppers, water chestnuts, snow peas, and the most velvety pieces of white meat all stir-fried, all cooked perfectly. Clams with Black Bean Sauce must have just been raked from the sea, they were fresh, and loaded with garlic and black beans. The Chicken and Beef in Taro Pot we could not locate on the menu, it was chosen for us. Jacky said it is a newer dish and very popular. We could see why. The taro basket was crisp and crunchy, the fish pieces very soft but not overcooked, and the scallops and shrimp juicy were just delightful. Later, we found out it was aptly named and that it was on the menu, there called Three Delights.
Shrimp and Chicken Hunan Style and General Taoí Chicken were good examples of Hunan cuisine. Crispy Fish served Hunan style was even better. Perhaps best of all was a Cantonese dish called Steamed Fish with Ginger and Scallion Sauce. Had we ordered it, would have asked what fish was served. Didnít need to, striped bass topped with a flavorful ginger and scallion sauce was presented, head pointing towards me; happiness and knowledge that this Jacky knows appropriate Chinese customs and how to make a fine Ma Po Doufu or as his menu says, Szechuan Bean Curd.
Providence may not have a large Chinese population, but they do have multi-cultural Chinese restaurants that serve fine Chinese food, if ordered correctly. The chef at this two year-old eatery trained in China and Taiwan and does know how to make the most tender chicken we have ever enjoyed. Asked about his trick, we were told that marinating the chicken in egg whites and starch for some time is what makes that velvety taste. Though he adds pineapple and applesauce to some dishes, these are small items to be set aside when getting his otherwise authentic Chinese food. We deemed it some of the best this city has to offer.