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Onions and Some RelativesVegetables and Vegetarian Foods
Winter Volume: 2017 Issue: 24(4) pages: 18 to 21
Onions
are in the
Allium family
and botanically
called Allium
cepa. They
are related to
garlic, shallots,
and leeks,
among other
items. Already
discussed in
Volume 23(2) on pages 16 - 19 and 24, they can be
biennials or perennials, most harvested in the Fall. If
they are left in the ground, they will grow bigger and
better the following spring. They are bulbs bred and grown in China for some seven
thousand years. The Chinese call them yang cong
meaning ‘foreign’ even though they have been around
that long. Some call them ‘jade onions’ no matter their
color, size, or variety. All varieties are popular in the
Chinese culinary if consumed for health as medicinals
or as vegetables. Green onion tops are erroneously called their stalks.
They die back in Fall and reappear the following spring,
if left in the ground and not removed. They were first
described in the western world in 1753 by Carl Linnaeus.
Their red cousins share the same tan exterior as do
white ones and all in this family, no matter the color of
their flesh, are eighty-nine percent water, four percent
sugar, one percent protein, and two percent fiber. For those with pets, we recommend not letting them in
house or garden because if cats or dogs ingest them,
they can get sick because too much or too many can
be toxic for them. On the positive side, they can repel
moths and prevent small insect bites if made into a
poultice for the skin. They have been used as such and
in other medicinal ways for almost as long as they have
been around thanks to their cinnanic acid, caffeine,
asafoetida, volatile oils, and other stomach-bothering
constituents. Chinese TCM practitioners say they have a warm, sweet
yet pungent nature and can positively impact liver and
lung channels. They are not always nice when slicing or
dicing as they can bring tears to the eyes. Do that task
under cold running water to reduce their tearing impact. The Chinese use onions to treat high blood pressure,
relieve constipation, reduce skin ulcers, treat wounds,
stop vaginal itching, and reduce other irritations. In the
kitchen, use them in major and minor dishes where they
are always appreciated.
Shallots,
relatives of onions,
often grow in
bunches, have tan
exteriors as do
onions, and can be
white or red within.
Their bunches
are almost always
called clusters, their bulbs a type of Allium cepe that
is different from their brethren. Many originated in
Central Asia, others in China, and they are preferred
when fried and crisp. They can be purchased that way.
Chinese cook them at least until they wilt though they
prefer them crisp, and they do like to mix them with
other ingredients. In China, the word for shallots varies by region. It can
be yang cong, jiu cong, or qing cong; onions are most
often called yang cong. The recipes that follow when
cooking them, substituting one for the other is common
and acceptable. Our Chinese friends tell us they rarely
do that but we often do, particularly when one is
unavailable. Reasons differ, but these friends tell us they do respect
taste and their textural differences. They sense these
changes but this does not bother many of them. If it
bothers you, simply do not do that. We suggest you do
as you like for all these bulbs.
Leeks are
also related,
and botanically
called Allium
ampeloprasom.
In the past, they
were called
kurrats. They
are the mildest
members of this
family, and even though they are, Buddhist monks
do not eat them because they believe they raise their
sexual energies. Actually, they do not eat any allium
bulb for this reason. This family member is the tallest and most layered
among them. They also hold the most dirt and sand in
their green tops so do wash them carefully. Often sold
in bunches though they do not grow that way, we use
leeks very carefully rinsed to get rid of all dirt or sand in
their interiors. Sometimes, we cut them in half the long
way and then rinse them.
Scallions
are white in their
lower part which is
less than half way
up, green in their
upper parts, as are
leeks. When planted
and after sprouting,
most growers pile up the soil around their bottom part
trying to keep most of this section white; the more
white the better. Some users do discard the green part
and only use the white part as this is more tender and
has a different taste. Those that do, like them with as
much white as possible, while those that use the green
tops do want them as tall and as tender as possible. The Chinese and others who discard the green tops do
save them if they plan to use them in soups and long-long-cooked dishes. We consider that a waste, add
them to salads and other dishes and never throw them
out. We find uses for them, we do cook the green part
separately and longer. We love scallions and leeks and
are careful to cook their whites for a short time, the
green parts for more time than most recipes do. With long cooking, leeks retain their shape and texture
better than scallions do. And we know that leeks are
the mildest in this family. We like them and cook either
one only for a little time so they have good texture. We
know that many folk have no or less trouble digesting
and tolerating them. Overall, do enjoy the entire family and do
make all the recipes below and those found in other
places, too. We use any family member in any dish, be
they stews or stir-fried ones. Leek Omelettes |
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Ingredients:
4 leeks, cut in half the long way, rinsed of all sand, then angle-cut in thin slivers
5 eggs, beaten well
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
1 Tablespoon Chinese sesame oil
Preparation:
1. Set aside one tablespoon of the green slivered leeks,
and rest the rest of the leek pieces with the eggs.
2. Heat a wok or fry pan, add both oils and when hot,
add the egg mixture, and stir just until it starts to set.
3. Then turn over the almost set leek-egg mixture and
allow it to start to set on the other side.
4. Remove this to a cutting board and cut it this omelette
into eight wedges.
5. Serve them on a pre-heated platter and do garnish
them with the set aside pieces of green leeks.
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Goat and Onion Soup |
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Ingredients:
½ pound goat fillet, sliced thin, then cut into one-inch long pieces
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
2 teaspoons rice wine
2 teaspoons sesame oil
½ teaspoon each, coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 cup diced onions
½ fresh chili pepper seeded and slivered
2 peeled onions, one red and one white, cut in large pieces top to bottom
½ cup fresh coriander leaves and stems, coarsely chopped
6 to 8 cups boiling chicken broth
1 Tablespoon Chinese black vinegar
Preparation:
1. Mix goat meat, soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil
with the salt, pepper, and cornstarch, and marinate it in
this for half an hour before draining and drying the meat
with paper towels. Reserve the marinade refrigerated
for another use. It will stay refrigerated for several days.
2. Heat a wok or fry pan, add the oil, and stir-fry the
drained marinated meat for two minutes, then add the
chili pepper and leeks and stir-fry for another minute
until the meat is no longer pink.
3. Remove the meat from the wok or pan and continue to
fry the leeks for another two to three minutes.
4. Then, put al these cooked foods in a pre-heated soup
tureen with the coriander, the boiling chicken broth, goat
meat, and vinegar, and mix well., then serve in a preheated
tureen or individual soup bowls.
|
Lamb, Leek and Other Greens |
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Ingredients:
1 pound lamb fillet, sliced thin
2 teaspoons each, dark soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil
½ teaspoon each, coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup vegetable oil
5 fresh chili peppers, some hot some not
5 peeled and crushed fresh garlic cloves
1 leek, angle sliced
1 cup fresh coriander leaves, coarsely chopped
Preparation:
1. Mix meat, soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil. Then
add salt and pepper and cornstarch and marinate for half
an hour. Then drain and dry the meat with paper towels.
2. Heat a wok or fry pan, add the oil, and fry the drained
marinated meat for two minutes, then add the chili
peppers and garlic and stir for another minute.
3. Put this in a pre-heated serving bowl, sprinkle the
coriander leaves on top, and serve.
|
Spareribs and Caramelized Ginger |
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Ingredients:
3 to four pounds spare ribs, chopped in individual one-inch pieces
2 cups vegetable oil, reserving one tablespoon to oil a serving platter
1/4 cup fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
3 leeks, washed well, and thinly angle sliced
½ cup Ginger liqueur
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup red wine vinegar
2 Tablespoons soy sauce, one dark, the other thin
1 teaspoon salt
Preparation:
1. Blanch the spare ribs for two minutes in boiling water,
then quickly rinse them in cool water.
2. Heat the oil in a soup pot and deep-fry half the spare
ribs until crisp, about four minutes, then drain them on
paper towels and fry the second batch of ribs for the
same amount of time. Then drain them the same way,
reserving the oil.
3. Rinse the pot, add two tablespoons of the oil to it, an
add all the ribs and stir-fry them for three minutes, then
add the ginger and the leeks, and stir- fry this for two
minutes before adding the liqueur, sugar, vinegar, soy
sauce, and salt.
4. Stir over a hot burner until the sauce thickens and is
like syrup, then put this in a pre-heated bowl and serve
promptly.
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Pork Ribs With Scallops |
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Ingredients:
5 dried scallops, boiled for one hour, then drained and cooled, then tear them into very thin strips
1 pound boneless pork ribs cut in one-inch pieces
½ pound daikon, peeled and diced or very thinly sliced
2 large carrots, peeled and diced
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and sliced, then each slice smashed, and then diced
1 Tablespoon goji berries
5 scallions, angle sliced
Preparation:
1. Put pork ribs into one quart of boiling water and
simmer for one hour, then remove and set them aside.
2. Strain the liquid of all solids, rinse the pot, and return
the ribs and the strained liquid to it.
3. Add the rest of the solid ingredients but not the goji
berries and the scallions adding half cup of water and
bring this to the boil and reduce the heat and simmer for
twenty minutes.
4. Now, add the goji berries and simmer for five minutes
more.
5. Serve in individual pre-heated soup bowls tossing in half
the scallions and then adding the rest of them as garnish.
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Shallot-Flavored Corn and Chick Peas |
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Ingredients:
6 shallots, peeled, minced, and deep-fried crisp
½ teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 scallion top, green part only, minced
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
3 salted duck egg yolks, steamed for ten minutes, then mashed
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup canned corn kernels
1 cup canned chick peas
1 cup vegetable oil
Preparation:
1. Mix the shallots, ground Sichuan peppercorns, sugar,
and scallion pieces, then add the cornstarch and the
mashed duck egg yolks and salt and mix them into the
corn and chick peas.
2. Add one tablespoon of cold water and mix well..
3. Heat wok or deep fry-pan, then add the corn and
chick pea mixture and let this fry for one to two minutes
watching it carefully as it will foam up. Then use a
slotted spoon and remove all from the oil, draining it on
paper towels. Now allow it to cool on a clean dry plate..
4. When cool, put this in a bowl and serve as a snack or
put it in on paper-towel-lined container until ready to
serve it. It can stay one or two days in the refrigerator
or in a cool place.
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Chicken, Leek, Scallions, and Noodles |
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Ingredients:
1 pound wide Chinese wheat or rice noodles, cooked in salted water until just tender, drained, rinsed, and chilled in cold water
3 Tablespoons sesame oil, divided
2 roasted chicken breasts, skin and bones removed, meat shredded in thin strips
½ onion, in small pieces
½ leek, white part only
10 scallions, sliced on an angle, long and thin
2 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced
1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
1 bunch Chinese parsley, rinsed and chopped
2 chili peppers, seeded and chopped
1 pound snow peas, strings removed, and angle sliced one-half-inch wide
½ cup thin soy sauce
3 Tablespoons creamy peanut butter
3 Tablespoons cold tea
2 Tablespoons rice vinegar
2 Tablespoons granulated sugar
Preparation:
1. Rinse the noodles in hot water, then drain them and
mix them with half the sesame oil.
2 Heat a wok or fry pan, add the vegetable oil and fry the
onions, garlic, and scallions until all are soft.
3.Next add the shredded chicken pieces, the Chinese
parsley, chili pepper and snow pea pieces, and stir-fry
for one minute mixing this well.
4. Make a dressing mixing the thin soy sauce, peanut
butter, cold tea, rice vinegar, sugar, and the other half
of the sesame oil, and mix this into the vegetables in
the wok.
5. Put the noodles and all the other ingredients including
the vegetables in a large pre-heated serving bowl. Add
the remaining sesame oil, and stir well. Serve hot or
warm.
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Mandarin Fish Stew |
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Ingredients:
2 pounds firm white-fleshed fish, skinless and boneless, cut into two-inch pieces
2 Tablespoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons Siracha sauce
2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium zucchini, angle-cut
2 stalks celery, angle-cut
1 large carrot, peeled and angle-cut
1 onion, cut in large wedges
8 cloves fresh garlic, peeled cut in halves, then smashed
1 knob fresh ginger, peeled, thick-sliced, then each slice smashed
4 shallots, peeled and angle-slivered
2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
Preparation:
1. Mix fish pieces with the brown sugar, Siracha sauce,
and vegetable oil, and all other ingredients and set
aside for ten minutes.
2. Next, heat a wok or fry pan, and fry the fish mixture
until light brown, then add the vegetables and stir-fry
three minutes before remove everything to a preheated
bowl, and then serve it.
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