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Mushrooms are MagnificentMushrooms
Spring Volume: 2019 Issue: 26(1) pages: 8 to 13
The most common mushroom, worldwide, is the
button mushroom. A Chinese poet, Yang Wanli,
wrote “After a rain, round mushrooms pop up
from the steamy soil.....are as sweet as honey....with a
fragrance that lingers between the teeth.” TCM medical
practitioners say eating
these mushrooms can
reduce blood pressure,
increase appetite, shrink
tumors, help those with
hepatitis, and numbness. 
Would that all this were
true. In the culinary
realm, all mushrooms
are magnificent and go
well with virtually all
foods, make everything
taste better; and they
are loaded with many
glutamates, provide
umami which is a basic
sense to taste buds. The
other tastes, in case
you forgot, are sweet,
sour, salty, and bitter.
If you are Chinese, they
add another one they
call ‘pungent’ or ‘flavor
enhancing.’ Matters
not what you call it,
every mushroom has
lots of glutamates; they
increase enjoyment of
all tastes. More than a hundred
countries grow edible
mushrooms above
ground, many but we
know not how many
are grown at ground
level, and others are
grown under ground.
Now, more than twenty
different mushroom
varieties grow indoors
on various kinds of compost or logs made grinding
various different woods. They are productive and
easily available, and if you never grew any, try doing so. My husband did so starting a long-term undertaking
when I went to China on sabbatical. He drilled
hundreds of holes in freshly cut six foot sections of
oak logs and filled them with spores. Then, he did
need to cover them with beeswax so the spores would
stay in the holes of a
half-inch drill bit. He
told me it took him days
to do this. He did not
start small when I was
not home. He figured he
has months to complete
this task as there were
about a hundred logs,
and each log needing
fifty or more holes in it.
I never counted them
and I am not sure he did
either. 
Next, he stacked the
logs and put a soaker
hose on top; it had
many tiny holes and
did keep the logs wet
using very little water.
It was always on for
about six months.
Then, he leaned them
alternating, front and
back, on a thick iron
pipe acting as a cross
bar. These he watered
about once a week
if it did not rain that
week, and did for a
few months. Enjoy the
pictures of them. We
enjoyed the hundreds of
pounds they produced
every fall, fewer each
Spring, for about five
years. This process
was repeated several
times until we moved to
a Life-care Retirement
Community as it could
not be done there. I miss the tiny buds and the many
mushrooms generated from the drilled holes, and then
from the cracks up and down most logs. They stayed leaning on those cross bars in the shade
under other live oak trees all that time. We did enjoy
them the first and subsequent years as they produced
handsomely and we harvested more than their initial
investment each and every year until there were no
spores to produce more mushrooms. Produce they did, every tiny round protuberance
growing larger until a recognizable mushroom appeared.
We did cut a few when small, left most to get big, and
some did that overnight. When a size we wanted or
appreciated, we cut the mushroom away from the log
and either cooked it fresh or dried it in a six layer plastic
fruit and vegetable drier rotating the layers to allow
these wonderful shiitake mushrooms to dry evenly.
When very dry, we stored them in large plastic jars in
our cool dry basement. They produced every fall and
spring, more the former months, until the logs became
spongy holding no more spores. My husband, six years later, cut down fresh oak trees
into six foot lengths, drilled hundreds of holes in them,
I could watch as I was no longer on sabbatical, and began
the process started again from stacking, wetting, leaning
on the iron cross bars, etc. until these logs began
producing more shiitake mushrooms. We tried oyster
mushrooms on composite logs outside and inside, but
they were less productive. Fossil records did show us that shiitake and other
mushrooms grew more than a million years ago in China.
We read about them in Taishang Lingbaozhi Caopin in
the closing years of the Eastern Jin Dynasty (circa 420
CE) and elsewhere. They discussed their flavor, texture,
medicinal, and tonic attributes. The shiitake mushrooms had great aroma, and
they enhanced every dish we prepared with them.
Restauranteur chefs know that fresh ones are tender and
easily damaged, and if aroma-free at room temperature
are probably immature or past their prime. That said, do
smell them before using or purchasing yours. Many different mushrooms are popular in Asia, some
enjoyed fresh, others dried, canned, or pickled. In
China, the black shiitake ones, also called ‘black forest
mushrooms, fragrant mushrooms, flower mushrooms,
Chinese black mushrooms;’ and called “shiitake
mushrooms’ are most loved. That is their Japanese
name, and they have been used for thousands of
years, always produced in shady areas, best grown on
hardwoods, and very productive. Below we discuss
eight common mushrooms the Chinese adore. Shitake botanically
known as Lentinula
edodes, have been revered
for thousands of years and
used for food and medicine
throughout Asia. We know
them well, grew them
successfully in the shade in
our north shore Long Island
backyard.
It was time consuming to
drill the many holes in
freshly cut oak logs, but only
necessary every five or six years, then stacked them,
soaked them, and kept them wet for some months, then
they sat on an iron crossbar, leaning side by side in
opposite directions, and they were very productive for
five or six years. We were rewarded with two crops each year after just
a few their very first year with lots of mushrooms in
the Fall, a smaller batch in the Spring. The only work
needed was grabbing a knife and cutting them off the
logs, many more than we could use at any one time. The
box and its cover (on page 8) are one cutting’s worth
one Fall, more that a hundred pounds each fall from
six dozen logs. We did need to remove their stems, and
put most in our fruit and vegetable dryer. re-arranging
its layers to dry them evenly. We did read that spores can also be grown on sawdust
logs, but we never tried that as we heard they were
not as productive as fresh logs would be. Cooking and
consuming these mushrooms have a long history, few
are allergic to them, and growing them was fun and a
delight to savor our efforts. We want to share that if
you cook them with an American quarter and it turns
black then they are poisonous is an old wive’s tale. Do
not test it, as you can die doing so. In Asia and in our
home, shiitake mushrooms are food, tonic, and great
tastes! TCM colleagues tell us they are also medicines
as indicated above. Be aware that every mushroom variety has many
different names, and learn them and learn ways to
prepare them. Mushrooms are low in fat, have many
B vitamins, and very few calories. Simply brush them
clean with a soft mushroom brush. Do not wash them,
and cook them, fresh, soaked if dried, drained, and
then cooked to enjoy them. Black forest shiitake mushrooms are most popular in
Asia, are brown when fresh, black when dried and the
best have many cracks on their cap’s surface. They are
the most expensive, and the most flavorful. They can
enhance one’s qi, improve one’s immune activity, treat
one’s heart condition, and enhance circulation. Oyster
mushrooms are
referred to by
many as ‘shellfish
of the woods’ and
are botanically
known by many
names in the
Pleurotus family.
Some know they
have convex caps
with frilly edges,
and can be white,
colorless, some gray or pinkish; while newer varieties
are silver colored or a newer tint. Their texture is soft,
resembles their seafood namesake, are mild, and have
a pleasant taste. Best known for their cardiovascular
and cholesterol lowering abilities, and they can inhibit
tumors. Doing so does seem to take time, and TCM
practitioners tell us this requires two or three months
to do so. The Chinese use them for joint and muscle
relaxation, and like them as they are easy to grow at
home, are excellent blood builders and they contain
lots of amino acids, and reasonable amounts of B
vitamins and iron.
Portabella mushrooms, also known as
Baby Bella or Crimini, are actually cousins of the
common white button mushroom. They are tan or
brown and with more intense flavor. Botanically
known as Agaricus bisporus, they are buttery in
texture, and best cut when their veils and gills are
closed. One writer said the texture of these expensive
mushrooms reminds him of a fine filet . We find that a
stretch. He also says to rinse them and we say that is
a no-no and we barely brush them or wipe them with a
damp paper towel. When big, beautiful, and meaty, they
are great grilled, broiled, or sauteed, and a wonderful
meat replacer. Reported to play a role in breast cancer
prevention, they also modulate coronary heart disease. Maitake
mushrooms, the
Japanese say are
‘dancing’ or ‘flying’
in the wind as the
overlapping ends
of these Grifala
frondosa do look
that way. Large
ones can be as big
as old-fashioned watermelons. These frilly mushrooms
have an additional moniker of ‘the fungus among us’
thanks to this frilly look. Best breaking off pieces of
their clumps near the stem, smaller pieces are best
cooked just a little and said to improve the immune
system’s ability to fight infection. Researchers track
their ability to reduce lung, liver, and breast cancers
as they support general health, attack HIV, ulcers,
and other disease-attacking cells. They are immune-enhancing
and immune-boosting. Some say these
hen-of-the-woods should never be washed, just sliced,
dusted, and sauteed in oil or another fat, or stewed in
any one sauce. Wonderful with eggs, pasta, in soup
or a stew, every one should enjoy them for their many
health-related benefits including that they have very
few calories, many essential B vitamins, and large
amounts of selenium and potassium.
Enoki
mushrooms
used to be
botanically
known as Hericium
erinaceus
but are now
commonly called
Flammulina
velutipes. Once called pom pom mushrooms, these
days most have long thin stems, small white balls on
top, and are also known as Lion’s Mane, Monkey Head,
Hedge Hog, or Old Man’s Beard. Some say they taste
like lobster, and are useful treating stomach cancers.
One should reduce the humidity of the area they grow
in, particularly a few hours before breaking them off for
use, so they do not bruise.
Cloud or Wood Ear
mushrooms are
botanically known as
Auricularia auricula.
TCM practitioners know
they benefit a persons
qi, nourish their blood,
stop bleeding, and ease pain. However, there are many
look-a-likes so they urge us to remind readers there
are many other mushrooms that mimic them and are
toxic. Do purchase yours from reputable dealers and
know that they can reduce cholesterol, reduce diarrhea
from a weak spleen, reduce blood in the stool, and
are good after childbirth when soaked in vinegar or
honey and brown sugar. Eating them can reduce heart
disease, reduce atherosclerosis and do likewise to fatty
deposits in blood vessels that could cause heart attacks
or strokes.
Ling Zhi mushrooms,
are known as the Reshi
mushroom. They are
hard and woody, and are
botanically known as
Ganoderma lucium. They
can be found whole or sold
powdered, as granules, or
as extracts, and as such are
used to treat liver disorders,
hypertension, arthritis,
relieve heart palpitations, pain, edema, lung disorders,
high blood pressure, high cholesterol and other serious
ailments. Originally rare and expensive, now they
can be artificially cultivated, are more accessible and
are affordable. That is great as their anti-allergic
effects lower blood sugar levels, boost immunity, and
surround cholesterol in the small intestine preventing
its absorption. This general tonic mushroom was
once called ‘phantom mushroom.’ They are now mass
produced, easily available, and believed to positively
impact strength, vigor, and longevity.
Bamboo
Fungus has,
since 1984, been
bred artificially. It
has a net-like veil
and is botanically
known as Phallus
indusiatus and
seen on the cover
when fresh. Once
one of three mushrooms reserved for royalty, several
hundred were transplanted to Empress Cixi’s royal
garden where they produced not a single one. The
Empress was infuriated and ordered the official in
charge decapitated and he was.
Now, they are found dry and in cellophane bundles.
That Empress preferred hers fresh and with pigeon eggs
and called ‘Moon in Gauze.’ No chef we talked to even
heard of this dish even when we told them it was made
with Bamboo Pith, Long Net Stinkhorn, or Veiled Lady
mushroom. We heard they need rich soil and a well-rotted
woody location for growth, have been known
for their medical effects since the 7th century CE, grow
only in tropical areas, attract hundreds of flies and
other insects, and are known for their anti-microbial
properties; still they knew them not. Overall, the recipes that follow, and others in
cookbooks and magazine articles are often not easily
located. They can be listed under one of many headings
and often not by the name of their mushroom. So begin
looking for them in the meat, seafood, vegetable or soup
sections. Readers tell us they are delightful in so many
dishes, have a wonderful aroma, and they entice all at
your table to enjoy them; and you should, too. Stuffed Black Mushrooms |
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Ingredients:
6 ounces minced or ground pork
6 water chestnuts, minced
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
½ teaspoon Chinese rice wine
2 slices peeled fresh ginger, minced
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
2 Tablespoons oyster sauce
1 Tablespoon cornstarch or tapioca starch
20 large Chinese black mushrooms, soaked, stems discarded, mushroom water set aside
20 leaves of fresh coriander
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
Preparation:
1. Mix pork, with the minced water chestnuts, sugar, rice
wine, minced ginger, and the soy and oyster sauces.
2. Dust the underside of the mushrooms with the selected
starch and wet hands before putting two tablespoons of
the pork mixture onto each mushroom cap. Dust any
remaining starch on top of the meat mixture, then put a
coriander leaf on top of each mushroom.
3. Heat wok, add the oil, and put the mushrooms filling
side down in the wok, and lightly brown them. Turn
them over and add half cup of the mushroom water
with t without some broth. Cover the wok and simmer
for fifteen to twenty minutes, until the pork mixture is
thoroughly cooked.
4. Remove the cover, put the mushrooms on a pre-heated
platter, pour any juices over them, and serve.
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Bamboo Pith Dumplings |
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Ingredients:
2 cups flour
½ cup fresh lily bulb pieces, minced
½ cup water chestnuts, minced
1/4 cup hollow stem vegetable, coarsely minced
1/4 cup soaked bamboo pith mushrooms
6 Chinese black mushrooms, soaked, stems discarded, and minced
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 egg white
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
Preparation:
1. Mix flour with one cup boiling water, stir well, cover,
and allow to rest for ten minutes before kneading into
a soft dough. Divide into twenty pieces and roll each
one out. Cover them with a cloth and set aside until the
filling is made.
2. Mix minced lily bulb, water chestnut, hollow stem
vegetable, and both kinds of mushrooms, then add egg
white, salt, and sugar, and stir this filling well.
3. Wet one piece of the dough around its edges, fill the
center with two teaspoons of the filling and pinch closed,
then set the dumpling on a dry plate and continue until
all are made.
4. Put a piece of parchment paper on the steamer rack
and put all the dumplings on it leaving half-inch between
them. Steam over rapidly boiling water for five minutes,
remove to a lightly oiled platter, and serve.
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Mushroom Fans |
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Ingredients:
1 pound button mushrooms brushed but not washed, their stems removed level with the bottom of their caps
2 cups vegetable oil
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon minced Sichuan cabbage
1 teaspoon sugar and salt, mixed
1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine
½ teaspoon sesame oil
Preparation:
1. Slice each mushroom into fans not cutting all the way
through from one end to the other.
2. Heat oil and deep-fry the mushrooms, they will fan
out, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and set
aside on a pre-heated platter.
3. In a very small pot, heat soy sauce, minced Sichuan
cabbage, salt and sugar, the rice wine, and the sesame oil
until just below the boil. Pour this over the mushrooms,
and serve.
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Crispy Monkey Head Mushrooms |
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Ingredients:
6 to 8 dried monkey head mushrooms, soaked for one hour in tepid water
1 Tablespoon ginger juice
3 tablespoons Chinese yellow rice wine
1 egg white
salt and sugar to taste
3 tablespoons lotus root flour
1 cup vegetable oil
2 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced
1 Tablespoon fermented black beans, rinsed then chopped
3 small hot pickled chili peppers
a few lettuce leaves spread onto a platter
Preparation:
1. Gently squeeze water out of the monkey head
mushrooms, then slice them thinly and soak these
slices in the ginger juice, rice wine, egg white, salt, and
the sugar for half an hour, stirring two or three times.
2. Toss the mushrooms with lotus root flour.
3. Heat a wok or a fry pan, add oil, and stir-fry the
mushrooms until crisp. Then remove them and drain
on paper towels.
4. Fry the garlic, black beans, and the chili peppers
in the oil and when hot, add the mushrooms and stir
gently for one minute before putting them the lettuce
leaves, then serve.
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Cloud Ear Mushroom Soup |
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Ingredients:
1 skinless and boneless chicken thigh
3 chicken wings, bones removes, each wing turned inside out, then cut in half on an angle
3 tablespoons dry cloud ear mushrooms, soaked for twenty minutes in warm water
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 small chili pepper
3 slices peeled fresh ginger
1 scallion, cut into one-half inch pieces
1 tablespoon Shao Xing wine
1 tablespoon thin soy sauce
1 tablespoon mushroom soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese black vinegar
2 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with one tablespoon cold water
6 cups chicken broth
Preparation:
1. Cut chicken thighs and inside out wings into one-inch
pieces.
2. Remove the very thick parts of the cloud ear
mushrooms, then cut them into one-inch pieces.
3. Heat oil and stir-fry the chili pepper and ginger for
two minutes, then discard them.
4. Add the pieces of chicken into the oil and stir-fry for
two minutes, then add the scallion pieces, wine, soy
sauce, and vinegar and the cornstarch mixture and
broth and bring to the boil stirring all the time.
Serve in a pre-heated soup tureen or ladle into
individual soup bowls and serve.
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Yin Yang Health Soup |
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Ingredients:
1 pound pork shin meat, cut into one-inch cubes
2 Tablespoons minced ginseng root
5 cordyceps mushrooms, scalded in boiling water
5 pitted Chinese black dates, each cut in four pieces
10 canned lotus seeds
3 slices fresh ginger, cut into thin pieces
1/4 teaspoon salt
Preparation:
1. Put cubes of pork shin into boiling water and boil
them for two minutes, then drain and return them to
a clean pot.
2. Add two cups of boiling water, the ginseng, dates,
lotus seeds, ginger, and salt and simmer for ninety
minutes. Taste and add more salt, if needed. Then
serve.
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Sauteed Oyster Mushrooms |
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Ingredients:
3/4 pound oyster mushrooms
½ up chicken broth
3 scallions, thinly angle sliced
3 Tablespoons chicken fat
1 Tablespoons water chestnut flour
salt and pepper, to taste
Preparation:
1. Break oyster mushrooms into small pieces.
2. Heat chicken fat in a wok or fry pan, then add the
broth and bring this to the boil.
3. Next, add the mushrooms and stir-fry them until
most of the liquid evaporated, then add salt and pepper
and the water chestnut flour and stir for one minute
until it thickens. Then serve in a pre-heated bowl.
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Vegetarian Eel |
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Ingredients:
10 large black mushrooms, soaked until soft, water squeezed out and set aside, if needed, the mushroom stems discarded
3 Tablespoons cornstarch
1 egg
2 Tablespoons Chinese rice wine
½ teaspoon mixed salt and pepper
1 cup vegetable oil
Preparation:
1. Cut mushrooms in thick spiral slices, then put them
in a paper bag with the cornstarch and shake well for
two minutes, then remove the mushrooms and set
them aside for an hour.
2. In another bowl, mix egg and rice wine, then mix
this with the mushroom spirals, and toss in the salt and
pepper and mix. Add extra cornstarch if any of the
mushrooms look uncoated, and toss them well, then
set them aside. For another half an hour.
3. Heat the oil in a three quart pot, add the mushrooms,
and deep fry them until golden. Drain them with a
spider and put them on paper towels for a few minutes.
Serve them in a pre-heated bowl.
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