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A Culinary History of Taipei, Beyond Pork and Ponlaiby: Steven Crook
Hui-wen Hung, Katy
Lantham MD:
Rowman 6 Uttlefield 2018, Hardbound
ISBN: 978-1-5381-0137-1
Reviewed by: Jacqueline M. Newman
Fall Volume: 2019 Issue: 26(3) page(s): 20
This book is one in the ‘Big City Food Bibliographies’
edited by Ken Albala. It was written by two Taipei city
residents, one a native, the other making home here
for more than a quarter of a century. Both believe
Taipei cuisine should be delicate, not even forcefully
explained, yet they do so in ten chapters, the last one
titled: ‘Signature Dishes and Recipes.’ It includes twelve
of them with one more than a single one. It incorporates
several others in this master recipe, just not named as
such.
This book delightfully details the Taiwan’s larder, their
kitchens, special foods, festivals, some holiday foods,
the farms that feed this city, the markets, restaurants,
tipples, teas, and minor points in its overall cuisine. It
includes a long bibliography, a many-page index, but
only two short paragraphs about its authors. Overall, there and many details about this city even
though few are about its authors. Learning about them
is in just eight lines about both of them. That was a pity;
we did want to know more about each one of them. We did enjoy their take on Taipei’s kitchens, soy
sauce, and other culinary essentials. Also learned
about the Japanese influences here. We became mre
knowledgeable about Hakka cuisine and how it came
down from the hills. Now we understand more about
Taipei’s role of rice, festival foods, Bando and other
Holo banquet and wedding celebrations, postpartum
customs, various teas, local indigenous cuisines,
the city’s markets, and the culinary teachers whose
influences prevail. We learned more about their experts including Angela
Cheng, Teresa Lin, Penny Pan, and others. Learned
about their teaching and enjoyed stories about the
foods they tout, the current and past, some web
education provided, many on-line sources, the city’s
agricultural sectors and what they produce, other
famous chefs, super stars, and some Taipei folk worth
knowing about. This is the first English-language book about Taipei’s
food and fabulous culinary people, the place and
its foods and more. It is comprehensive, accurate,
fascinating, and fun to read. This serious food
destination we know and love, and learned it is
growing more enticing, more complex, even more
adventurous day by day. Like every city, it is the sum
of talented eaters, preparers, and those who frequent
and indulge in its dishes. We have and you should, too.
We often have enjoyed every minute we did, and know
you will, too. |
